At 71 years old, Hermínia Rebelo still remembers with fondness and mouth watering the recipe inherited from her grandmother, synonymous with autumnal abundance, celebration, and making use of everything that animals, gardens and orchards offered at the table. In a community, the slaughter of the pig, raised and fattened (fed) in each house, was a ritual that required expertise, marking the beginning of winter and the meticulous preparation of the meat, which would last throughout the year.
“In the past, at the time of slaughter, with fresh pig fat dripping and chestnut flour, which is abundant in this area, chestnut patanisca was made”, he says. Regarding the “very old” recipe, so much so that its origins are lost in time, he explains that it was based on “fat, fresh meat, from when pigs were killed”, and chestnuts, dried and transformed into flour. As the ritual was no longer carried out at home, the cook updated the recipe: buy homemade sausage, cut “a little slice to put on each piece of pasta and in half add chorizo”, she explains. The dough, identical to that of traditional cod patanisca, differs in flour. To preserve the chestnut, cultivated in the region beyond the season, “it is dried, broken into the size of a grain of corn and then goes to the mill and becomes flour”, says Hermínia, clarifying that, “as there were no freezers, it spoiled quickly”.
House of D. Hermínia
The scarcity of the ingredients needed for the recipe, especially chestnut flour, makes the snack, fried even before it reaches the table, rarely available. Before heading towards Aldeia de Fontes, in Santa Marta de Penaguião, check if it is still time for “Chestnut Patanisca” and book.
In this small isolated village, where the road ends, it is not by chance. That’s why “I only work by appointment”, warns Hermínia Rebelo, also known as “Hermínia do Marão”. The traditional and simple room, where it was moved at the time of the Covid-19 pandemic to facilitate the service, wins first and foremost with its breathtaking view, with the outline of the lofty mountains revealing the region’s terraces. When it’s cold, the gaze turns inward, to the crackling fireplace and the messages of gratitude displayed on a cork board. Until tasty items start to arrive at the table, such as cheese, freshly cut ham, “because it tastes better”, some gizzards, the homemade smoked meat made by your own hand, “my alheirinhas”, the “Cod Pataniscas” and, more rarely, only when raw materials are available, the “Chestnut Pataniscas”.
Roasted goat
From the beginning, even when serving in a smaller house, which began decades ago as a grocery store and café, opened upon the return of emigration to France, the most famous dish is the “Roasted goat” (€35), prepared for a minimum of four diners, but Hermínia also prepares “Cozido” (€25) and “a very old cod that is delicious, fried, with onion, tomato and boiled potato”.
Prepared over the fire, in a three-foot pot, you can also reserve the “Cabidela”, the “Massa à lavrador” or the “Feijoada à Trás-os-Montes”. In a house where everything is done with dedication and care, another favorite is the “Bean rice”: “I put the pot in the middle and everyone comes to help themselves”, he describes. From the wood-fired oven come cod or “roast veal” (€25). “I don’t make modern recipes”, he clarifies, explaining that, to be on point, the preparations require cooking in quantity, so, “if it’s just for two, they have to rely on dishes like ‘Costeleta na brasa’ or a ‘Cod Steak’ also on the grill”.
Cream milk
The price always refers to the complete meal, including starters, house wine, water, coffee and dessert — a “Cream Milk” that remains in your memory. At 71, “I didn’t need to work so much, but I really like cooking.” The clientele of Casa de D. Hermínia (Rua de Tabuadelo, Fontes, Santa Marta de Penaguião. Tel. 254812398) thanks.
Tascas & Seafood Guide
The “Chestnut pataniscas” are one of the 12 recipes present in the Guia 365 Tascas & Marisqueiras, where typical spaces are recommended, one for each day of the year, on the stalls on November 21st
Throughout the 260 pages of the Guide 365 Tascas & Marisqueiras 250 taverns and 115 seafood restaurants are recommended, one for each day of the year, in keeping with the authenticity of Portuguese cuisine. You will also find 12 interviews with big names in national gastronomy with suggestions from the chef who indicate his favorite taverns and seafood restaurants.
Covering the entire country, it is divided into the North, Center, South and Islands regions in an invitation to discover authentic spaces, with identity and memory, where conviviality, wisdom and popular cuisine are still cultivated.
The 365 Tascas & Marisqueiras Guidewhich, which has the support of Recheio, is on sale for €16.90 from November 21, 2025. You can order it now through Impresa Customer Support Tel. 214698801.
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