In the heart of Hell’s Kitchen, Taquería Condesa pays homage to the energy, flavors and aesthetics of Mexico City. The new restaurant from Leonel Baizan, founder of Taquería 86, combines traditional Mexican cuisine with contemporary design inspired by the Condesa neighborhood — the capital neighborhood known for its Art Deco architecture, tree-lined streets and creative spirit.
“We wanted to bring a little bit of that famous Mexican neighborhood to Hell’s Kitchen, because they have a lot in common. They are both very diverse, with people from all over the world, and they are very happy and full of life,” says Baizan, whose childhood was spent in this area of Manhattan, where his mother, Sabela, began preparing and selling homemade tacos based on family recipes in the 1980s.
What began as a home business transformed into a family restaurant in the 1990s, and now, decades later, Leonel continues that legacy with a proposal that unites tradition, design and hospitality.
The menu: authenticity and character
In Condesa’s kitchen, Baizan leads a team that is inspired by traditional recipes, reinterpreted with technique and respect for the origin. All tacos are prepared with nixtamal tortillas handmade daily, and each one reflects a different flavor story.
Then, diners can order two or three tacos per order and accompany them with homemade sauces—green, chile de arbol, or smoked—made in-house. There are cod breaded in panko with purple and green cabbage, jalapeño mayonnaise, in a flour tortilla; roast beef with onion and cilantro, birria with Oaxaca cheese, onion, cilantro and the classic consommé; sautéed shrimp with poblano slices and onion, served with melted cheese; and for vegetarians there are mushroom ones with mushrooms, beans, onion and cilantro.
Before the tacos, you can start with guacamole with tortilla chips or roasted corn with chipotle mayonnaise, fresh cheese, Tajín and lemon. There are also quesadillas and burritos. Both can be customized with fillings such as carne asada, chicken tinga, roasted chicken, or grilled shrimp.
“The menu is very simple, tacos, quesadillas and burritos. I want the customer to come and enjoy themselves without having to worry too much when choosing what to eat. Of course, everything is fresh and homemade,” says Baiza, who has extensive experience in the city’s gastronomic industry, in places like Gramercy Tavern and Dos Caminos, before creating his own concepts.
And as for drinks, Taquería Condesa’s bar offers a selection of cocktails designed to complement the flavors of the menu. These include the Beso Rojo, made with tequila or mezcal with hibiscus flower infused with pomegranate, orange juice, lemon and agave, the margaritas or mojitos with touches of passion fruit, mango or strawberry; and the Sangrarita, a mix of frozen margarita and house sangria. Mexican beers and fresh waters made from tamarind, horchata or hibiscus are also offered.
While the perfect closing comes with the churros, available in two versions: the classic ones with cajeta, or accompanied by strawberry or vanilla ice cream, covered with dulce de leche and whipped cream. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, they are a true delight.
Retro inspiration and Mexican soul
The interior, designed by Pablo Castellanos Studio, transfers the spirit of the Countess to the urban landscape of Manhattan. The space combines warm materials, curved lines and nods to Art Deco. In the center of the dining room, a handmade stained glass wall stands out with the name of the restaurant, handcrafted in Mexico City.
A red circular sofa organizes the space and refers to the curved shapes of Amsterdam Avenue, while the bar, with mirrored walls, plays with reflections and light, creating an intimate and enveloping atmosphere.
“Everything that is here has a reason, that’s why people are surprised when they come in. They are topics of conversation,” explains Baizan.
Taquería Condesa is located at 824 9th Avenue, New York, NY 10019.More information at: www.taqueriacondesa.com