On the corner of Rua de Santa Catarina, there are many tourists surrounding the emblematic blue and white tiles of Capela das Almas, which has become a mandatory stop for anyone visiting the city. They catch your eye on the scenes from the life of Saint Francis of Assisi and Saint Catherine depicted on more than 15,000 tiles. The “distraction” makes the green gate that appears as a discovery even more discreet. You have to cross it and go down to a corner that fits well with its name, inherited from the old traditional house that operated here for decades. In addition to providing a refuge from the hustle and bustle outside in what is Invicta’s main shopping artery, this Grotto It reveals itself to be a place of welcome and comfort between two hemispheres.
Grotto
It was in 2021 that the chef Rafaela Lousada transformed the old space into a restaurant that quickly gained fans. With determination and sensitivity at the same level of demand, the house was built with women, almost exclusively, in the living room and kitchen, and this also became an identity trait. The feminine continues to set the rhythm of the restaurant that around a year and a half ago embraced a new chapter, by the hand of the young woman chef Carioca Caroline Giandalia.
The matrix remains unchanged: with the aim of “vmake the most of Portuguese products and producers”, In this cuisine, we mainly use Portuguese products, with emphasis on what arrives from the Atlantic coast, ingredients to which are added memories, confections and flavors from Brazil, in particular gives Amazonian culture, and technique that adopts aesthetics and preparations from French haute cuisine. The conjugation may sound apparently unusual, and it is. Delicacy and intensity surprise each option on the menu, served in signature ceramics designed specifically for this space and combined with carefully selected national wines, from a short range of small producers.
In the sober decoration, the serene tones stand out, the author’s illustrations that liven up the walls and the lively simplicity of the plants bring joy and underline the connection with nature and origin, both inside and outside.
Idealize, cook and serve in the feminine
The kitchen – and living room – is dominated by women
The Gruta restaurant team is made up of 22 women, between the kitchen and the living room. The feminine nature is evident in the experience guided by a combination of strength and delicacy, with space for emotion and reason, for the predictable and also for the unexpected. At the controls is young Caroline Giandalia, born in Rio de Janeiro. At the age of 29, his career in the kitchen began in the pastry shop, in a family project in Brazil, he already has experience alongside great names in national haute cuisine, such as José Avillez or Ricardo Costa, before embracing Gruta, where he worked for three years, having taken over as head of the restaurant with the departure of Rafaela Lousada.
“Here we essentially work with fish and seafood from our coast, combining Portuguese ingredients, from local suppliers, and Brazilian products, such as cassava, tucupi, cupuaçu, exotic fruits or açaí, presented in an unusual and surprising way”, highlights the chef on the letter that accompanies seasonality. At the basis of creation is the will to “ptry outside the box, bring ingredients that are not very common in Portugal, with identity and worked with delicacy”, he adds.
Seafood trio
The spicy olive oil, fermented seaweed butter, homemade focaccia and tapioca biscuits – a typical beach snack in Rio de Janeiro – which make up the cover charge, arrive at the table. Among the starters, there are suggestions such as the “Cured wild croaker crudo, with dashi and citrus based sauce, kumquat, jalapeño pickles and trout roe” (€12), the “Scallops with tucupi caramel and tangerine textures” (€18), the “Smoked pumpkin and beetroot pickle, with pumpkin puree with black garlic, mint oil and cheese from the island of São Miguel dos Açores” (€14) or the “Wild prawns sautéed in garlic, drizzled with fermented cashew nut sauce, chilli pepper oil and canónigos” (€16).
Among the main dishes, highlights include the hearty “Algarve prawn rice with lime and coriander aioli” (€38) and the surprising “Wild croaker with chestnut purée, açaí sauce, beurre blanc and chestnut chips” (€30) the “Grilled plantain moqueca, with basmati rice and dendê farofa” (€20), or “Eryngi mushroom made in braised with tamarind sauce, sautéed wild mushrooms, cauliflower puree, fennel salad and mushroom sauce” (€26).
Scallops with tucupi caramel
Desserts maintain the identity of the chef Caroline Giandalia and its basic connection to pastry. The “Pavlova with wasabi ice cream, gel and cherry mousse” (€10), the “Cake soaked in Dry White Port wine syrup, caramelized pear and cumaru cream” (€10), the “Cassava cake, cocada morena, grilled coalho cheese with honey and tapioca popcorn” (€10), or the “Chocolate mousse with dark chocolate cake, ganache” stand out. of caramelized white chocolate and cupuaçu ice cream” (€12).
Algarve prawn rice
With 48 seats, distributed between the main room and a recent air-conditioned terrace, the restaurant Grotto (Rua de Santa Catarina, 447, Porto. Tel. 911017007) Open from Monday to Sunday, only at dinner, between 18:00 and 23:00.
Grotto